Photos Source: www.2022.homofaber.com
Nurmuhammad Valiev (born in 1961) is a master craftsman specializing in the production and dyeing of Uzbek textiles and a member of the Khunarmand association. In 2023, he was featured among Uzbekistan’s renowned artisans on the prestigious international online platform Homo Faber Guide. Today, he is widely regarded as one of Margilan’s most celebrated masters.
Margilan – the Center of Silk Production
Margilan, located in the Fergana Valley just 15 km from the city of Fergana, is one of the oldest and most significant centers of Uzbek textile production. Historical records suggest that silk weaving began here as early as the 3rd century AD. Once an important stop on the Silk Road, Margilan adopted weaving techniques from China, yet quickly developed a distinctive local style.
For nearly 1,800 years, the intricate skills of this craft have been carefully preserved, passed down from master to apprentice through generations. Today, the renowned Yodgorklik factory operates here, employing over 400 artisans who produce 200–300 meters of fabric daily. The city is also home to the Margilan Crafts Center, uniting around 600 masters who create handwoven fabrics using traditional methods.
The Margilan Crafts Center has gained international acclaim, with UNESCO recognizing it as an example of good practice in preserving intangible cultural heritage.
Continuing the Tradition
Nurmuhammad Valiev is a fourth-generation master craftsman, having learned his skills from his father and grandfather, who raised silkworms and maintained a mulberry tree plantation. Despite the decline in production during the 20th century due to political changes, the family safeguarded their expertise and passed down every detail of this centuries-old Uzbek tradition to the next generation. Valiev began his professional work in fabric production in 2000.
Since then, he has earned recognition both in Uzbekistan and abroad. His textiles are sought after by many designers in Central Asia, showcased at craft fairs across Uzbekistan, and featured on leading global online platforms for artisans, including Smithsonian Marketplace, Homo Faber, NOVICA, and Artisans Connect. Since 2012, Valiev has also been dedicated to training young craftsmen, among them his own sons.
The Artisan's Fabrics
The craftsman works with materials such as cotton and silk, creating traditional Uzbek textiles like atlas and adras using centuries-old techniques.
Atlas is a renowned fabric featuring multicolored abra (slightly blurred) patterns. Woven from natural silk, it has a distinctive smooth texture achieved through special weaving methods. This fabric is always produced using the ikat technique, in which threads are dyed before being woven. In his atlas fabrics, Nurmuhammad Valiev incorporates both historical and contemporary patterns, occasionally adding his own original motifs.
Adras is made from equal parts silk and cotton, resulting in a more matte finish. Lightweight yet durable, it too is crafted with the ikat technique. In addition, Valiev works with the batik method, in which designs are applied to finished silk by hand. This allows for precise, detailed patterns and offers greater freedom for experimenting with color and composition.
In producing his textiles, Valiev faithfully preserves the traditions of Uzbek craftsmanship, working entirely by hand and using only natural dyes to achieve rich, authentic colors. At the same time, he enriches the tradition by introducing new elements, such as incorporating woolen threads or experimenting with textures.
Renowned for their quality, Valiev’s fabrics retain their vibrant colors and shape even after washing, making them practical for everyday use.
Workshop
Nurmuhammad Valiev’s workshop in Margilan is well known to both locals and visitors to the Fergana Valley. It is located within the Crafts Center, housed in the city’s historic Said Ahmad Khoja Madrasah.
Open daily from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., the workshop welcomes guests to observe the creative process and purchase fabrics directly from the renowned Uzbek craftsman and his students.